Road Trip!

Chinook after being sprung from
long-term storage

Written by Karen.

It's funny how a planned three-week stopover in the Bay Area to take care of a variety of mundane life tasks has rather inexplicably turned into an extended eight-week stay.  One thing after another - both planned and unplanned - has stalled our journey somewhat.  On the plus side, we've had a great time being able to spend some time with friends and family and seeing how much - or how little - things have changed over the past months since we left from SFO to fly to Bogota, Colombia on October 30, 2012. 

Los perros de la América del Sur

Written by Adam
Like most big cities around the world, a new cottage industry has emerged: professional dog walking.  It was certainly no different in Buenos Aires, at least in the neighborhoods where we were visiting.  These entrepreneurs somehow found a way to lead their tethered friends like a bouquet of barking balloons all around numerous territories like Recoleta, Palermo, and Belgrano.  The dogs seemed genuinely enthusiastic; anything to get out of their stuffy apartments shared with their owners and sniff around a bit, I suppose.  

La Boca Neighborhood, Buenos Aires

Caminito, La Boca, Buenos Aires

Written by Karen.

The La Boca neighborhood is one of the oldest - and most colorful - neighborhoods in Buenos Aires. It is also the neighborhood where we stumbled across the warehouse-turned-bar and met the husband and wife team of Nicole Nau and Luis Pereyra and their tango and folklore dance group.  (Tango in Buenos Aires Post) It was our first peek at the tango, with its artistic workings and beautiful interplay of heat, passion and sitting on-the-edge of your seat music.  

Muddy Mishap in the Park

Written by Karen.

On Sunday, we walked in a huge loop around the city that included a very large park complex consisting of open grassy spaces, trees, lakes, tennis courts, a horse racing track, zoo and a golf course in the Palermo and Belgrano districts of Buenos Aires.  Initially, we were looking to buy a golf cap as a souvenir at one of the five municipal golf courses in Buenos Aires, but being that it was a Sunday, the golf course and golf shop were very much closed. 

A City Within A City - Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires

Written by Karen.

Recoleta Cemetery

I like to wander around cemeteries.  Not because I’m ghoulish or have a secret death wish, but because it’s an insight into the way life was.  It’s a bit like walking through history. Whether the architecture of the final farewell is grand and elaborate or simply expressed on a weathered piece of wood - it’s not so much about the money, or the lack of money, that I find so interesting - but the heartfelt regard that in a few words defines a life lived.  

California, U.S.A.

Written by Karen.

Well, we've made another giant leap....we are back in the Bay Area, California!  I know we've been dark for a few weeks, but we are still here!  Despite my very best intentions, sometimes - for a variety of reasons - it is just not possible to blog while on the road.  

So, why are we back in California?  We have been compiling a list of "housekeeping" tasks of varying importance over the past 4-1/2 months while we have been exploring South America, and finally decided that it was easier to address these tasks in person than to try from afar.  Even though we downsized significantly before we left, there are a few outstanding issues left to address.  So, we'll be here for a few weeks while we take care of business, and before we head off into the great unknown to continue our travels.  

During our brief interlude back here in the Bay Area, we'll update our blog and fill in some of the blanks and "flashback" to other adventures and observations that we had while in South America. 

And then.....well - we're still working on where we are going next!  Thanks for coming along!

Tango in Buenos Aires

Written by Karen.
It's a steamy day.  The sun is brilliant against the blue sky absent of any cloud cover.  I am dripping with sweat.  It is hot.  Just plain hot.  We are walking around a couple of new neighborhoods today, La Boca and Barracas.  These areas are somewhat removed from the hubbub that is downtown Buenos Aires.  Our primary goal this day, like most days - besides exploring new neighborhoods - is to find a great local restaurant, preferably one with a good local wine list.   Gotta eat, right?

We Have To Stop Meating Like This...

La Rambla, Montevideo, Uruguay

Written by Karen.

Sometimes you know that you're going to have a great meal in advance. You look forward to the get-together with a certain sense of anticipation.  You might wonder what topics of conversation will be discussed or which bottles of wine will be opened.  After being seated, you are allowed plenty of time to salivate over the possible menu choices.  

But there are other times - every once in awhile - when a memorable meal sneaks up on you without you even realizing it and you suddenly look up and say, "Wow!" 

Eating in Peru

Zorritos, Peru

Written by Karen.
Peruvian food is seriously good.  Not only does it have spice, subtlety, depth and interest, but it has a history which invokes passion, a necessary component of creating good food.  Litha, a cooking aficionado and student of the culinary arts - and probably a chef extraordinaire someday - said to us one day when we were discussing the different Peruvian foods that we had tried, 'I love cooking Peruvian food because it is our history on the plate.'  It's an interesting and compelling thought.  The different types of potatoes, corn, meat, fish, fruits, vegetables, spices and herbs tell a story of the past and the present.  The marriage of those various components make for some pretty tasty things to eat.  

Machu Picchu, Peru

Written by Karen.

We went to bed early the night before our trip to Machu Picchu.  I checked - and double checked - the alarm clock as we needed to be up, ready to go, and at the bus station before 6:00 am. We already knew where the bus stop was located in the small mountain town of Aguas Calientes and had already purchased our bus tickets to the top of the mountain and back down again earlier that afternoon.  Our small daypack was packed; filled with nuts, dried fruit and bottled water.  We had read that food and water was scarce and very expensive at the top. The weather was seemingly cooperating.  We were ready to go.

Road Trip - Andean Mountains

Written by Karen.

I confess that before we took this journey I didn't know much about the specifics of Incan history.  As we have delved deeper and deeper into South America, my fascination with the historical specifics has grown significantly.  It is aided by the close proximity of living, seeing, breathing, touching and walking through historical sites and the majestic and awesome angular beauty of the Andes.  

Views of Cusco - On to Machu Picchu

Written by Karen.
Cusco, Peru is 11,200 feet above sea level; some 11,000 feet higher than where we were just a few days ago in Peru’s capital city, Lima.  Cusco is another UNESCO World Heritage site - full of Spanish Colonial architecture and restored churches in the historic city center - built upon the the ruins of the former Incan empire capital city of Qusqu.

Nightime in Downtown Lima, Peru.

Cathedral of Lima in Plaza de Armas

Written by Karen.

Lima is a beautiful, interesting and dynamic city. The architecture, cobblestoned streets, great restaurants, events/activities, friendly people, and the large plazas make this a very walkable and fun city to explore.  Even at night.  The air cools down a bit, and people spill out into the main plaza, Plaza de Armas, and side streets to grab a bite to eat, watch the futbol game, sit and talk, or just people watch. Time seems to slow down.  No one is in a rush.  The night is young.  Why not hang out for awhile? 

San Cristobal - Lima, Peru

Written by Karen.
Earlier in the week, we had seen the colorful homes climbing up a mountain near the downtown historical center, and noticed the huge cross that was on top of the mountain light up during the evening hours and wondered about it. What was the significance of the mountain with the huge cross?

Saturday Afternoon in Lima, Peru

Coastal Views

Written by Karen.

We slid into Lima as if into a pool filled with cool satin.  Effortlessly.  We have only begun to scratch the surface of this City, but already we know that we really like this place.  A lot.  Lima is the first city that we have explored in South America where we can see ourselves living in for awhile.  

Lima, Peru

Zorritos, Peru

Written by Karen.
I know....it's a big jump from our last blog post written in Cuenca, Ecuador.  We've been on the road for the past 10 days - mostly without internet access and at times without electricity service! - so I'll post some experiences that we had on the road at a future time.  But, for now....we're in Lima, Peru!  

Off the Beaten Path: Ingapirca, Ecuador

The final approach to Ingapirca, Ecuador

Written by Karen.

We left from the Terminal Terrestre bus station in Cuenca for the largest Incan archeological ruins in Ecuador: Ingapirca.  Translation: the Incan wall.  Ingapirca is approximately 80 km north of Cuenca in the Cañar province and is approximately 10,357 feet in altitude.  So, it's a bit higher than our current altitude in Cuenca of 8,370 feet.

Pretty Coca-Cola and Avocado Milk on the Side, Please.

Cuenca, Ecuador

Written by Karen.

Today we were at the Terminal Terrestre, Cuenca's main bus station, researching options for the next leg of our trip. It was hot and muggy, and due to a neighbor having a loud conversation at 3:15 a.m., we were both lagging just a bit.  

Happy New Year - 2013!

Written by Karen.

Last night, we - along with a multitude of other Cuencanos - celebrated New Year's Eve in downtown Cuenca. 

Earlier in the month, we wondered about the life-sized and headless dummies that we saw in Baños, and had seen lots of plastic masks being sold in tiny shops and market stalls.

Rx in Cuenca, Ecuador

Written by Karen.

One of the biggest challenges that we faced before we left on our trip was how to ensure that Adam could continue to take his required medications.  These aren't unusual or high-risk medications, rather they are the everyday, preventative and ongoing maintenance medications that are required as a commitment to better health.