Following the Pony Express

Written by Karen.
Highway 50 in Nevada often follows the route that the Pony Express took while in existence for only 18 months starting in 1860.  Called "The Pony", the privately-owned Pony Express carried information and mail over 2,000 miles from St. Joseph, Missouri to Sacramento, California in ten days.  Despite the high cost - up to $5.00 per ounce carried - the Pony Express was never a money making enterprise.  It was put out of business with the invention of the telegraph in 1861.  A telegram could traverse the same distance in 10 seconds.  

Point A to Point B: 5 Miles

Written by Adam
Still traveling along Highway 50 in Nevada - aka “The Loneliest Road in America” - we eventually reached the biggest metropolis in the immediate area: Ely, Nevada.  Just like in Las Vegas, there were a couple of gas stations, a McDonald’s, a saloon or two, and the omipresent miniaturized Nevada casinos.  Sure, there were other business enterprises...but this blog entry just covers the biggest business enterprises operating in Nevada.

Camping in the Quiet

Written by Karen.

We are completely alone.  Way off the beaten track with no electricity, running water or cell phone coverage.  We had been looking for a campground to set up before it got dark.  And cold.  Temperatures here in the high Nevada desert will drop to the low 40's once the sun sets.  

On the Road Again - VW Vanagon Style

Written by Karen.

After a flurry of last-minute activities and fond goodbyes, we began our road trip under cloudy skies and rain showers and headed east along Highway 50 into Nevada. Dubbed the "Loneliest Road in America" by Life Magazine in their July 1986 issue, the label - instead of being a deterrent for us driving a yet untested 1984 VW Vanagon - piqued our interest and curiosity. Life Magazine wrote, "We don't recommend it.  We warn all motorists not to drive there unless they're confident of their survival skills." We are up for the challenge!

Road Trip!

Chinook after being sprung from
long-term storage

Written by Karen.

It's funny how a planned three-week stopover in the Bay Area to take care of a variety of mundane life tasks has rather inexplicably turned into an extended eight-week stay.  One thing after another - both planned and unplanned - has stalled our journey somewhat.  On the plus side, we've had a great time being able to spend some time with friends and family and seeing how much - or how little - things have changed over the past months since we left from SFO to fly to Bogota, Colombia on October 30, 2012. 

Los perros de la América del Sur

Written by Adam
Like most big cities around the world, a new cottage industry has emerged: professional dog walking.  It was certainly no different in Buenos Aires, at least in the neighborhoods where we were visiting.  These entrepreneurs somehow found a way to lead their tethered friends like a bouquet of barking balloons all around numerous territories like Recoleta, Palermo, and Belgrano.  The dogs seemed genuinely enthusiastic; anything to get out of their stuffy apartments shared with their owners and sniff around a bit, I suppose.  

La Boca Neighborhood, Buenos Aires

Caminito, La Boca, Buenos Aires

Written by Karen.

The La Boca neighborhood is one of the oldest - and most colorful - neighborhoods in Buenos Aires. It is also the neighborhood where we stumbled across the warehouse-turned-bar and met the husband and wife team of Nicole Nau and Luis Pereyra and their tango and folklore dance group.  (Tango in Buenos Aires Post) It was our first peek at the tango, with its artistic workings and beautiful interplay of heat, passion and sitting on-the-edge of your seat music.  

Muddy Mishap in the Park

Written by Karen.

On Sunday, we walked in a huge loop around the city that included a very large park complex consisting of open grassy spaces, trees, lakes, tennis courts, a horse racing track, zoo and a golf course in the Palermo and Belgrano districts of Buenos Aires.  Initially, we were looking to buy a golf cap as a souvenir at one of the five municipal golf courses in Buenos Aires, but being that it was a Sunday, the golf course and golf shop were very much closed. 

A City Within A City - Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires

Written by Karen.

Recoleta Cemetery

I like to wander around cemeteries.  Not because I’m ghoulish or have a secret death wish, but because it’s an insight into the way life was.  It’s a bit like walking through history. Whether the architecture of the final farewell is grand and elaborate or simply expressed on a weathered piece of wood - it’s not so much about the money, or the lack of money, that I find so interesting - but the heartfelt regard that in a few words defines a life lived.  

California, U.S.A.

Written by Karen.

Well, we've made another giant leap....we are back in the Bay Area, California!  I know we've been dark for a few weeks, but we are still here!  Despite my very best intentions, sometimes - for a variety of reasons - it is just not possible to blog while on the road.  

So, why are we back in California?  We have been compiling a list of "housekeeping" tasks of varying importance over the past 4-1/2 months while we have been exploring South America, and finally decided that it was easier to address these tasks in person than to try from afar.  Even though we downsized significantly before we left, there are a few outstanding issues left to address.  So, we'll be here for a few weeks while we take care of business, and before we head off into the great unknown to continue our travels.  

During our brief interlude back here in the Bay Area, we'll update our blog and fill in some of the blanks and "flashback" to other adventures and observations that we had while in South America. 

And then.....well - we're still working on where we are going next!  Thanks for coming along!

Tango in Buenos Aires

Written by Karen.
It's a steamy day.  The sun is brilliant against the blue sky absent of any cloud cover.  I am dripping with sweat.  It is hot.  Just plain hot.  We are walking around a couple of new neighborhoods today, La Boca and Barracas.  These areas are somewhat removed from the hubbub that is downtown Buenos Aires.  Our primary goal this day, like most days - besides exploring new neighborhoods - is to find a great local restaurant, preferably one with a good local wine list.   Gotta eat, right?

We Have To Stop Meating Like This...

La Rambla, Montevideo, Uruguay

Written by Karen.

Sometimes you know that you're going to have a great meal in advance. You look forward to the get-together with a certain sense of anticipation.  You might wonder what topics of conversation will be discussed or which bottles of wine will be opened.  After being seated, you are allowed plenty of time to salivate over the possible menu choices.  

But there are other times - every once in awhile - when a memorable meal sneaks up on you without you even realizing it and you suddenly look up and say, "Wow!" 

Eating in Peru

Zorritos, Peru

Written by Karen.
Peruvian food is seriously good.  Not only does it have spice, subtlety, depth and interest, but it has a history which invokes passion, a necessary component of creating good food.  Litha, a cooking aficionado and student of the culinary arts - and probably a chef extraordinaire someday - said to us one day when we were discussing the different Peruvian foods that we had tried, 'I love cooking Peruvian food because it is our history on the plate.'  It's an interesting and compelling thought.  The different types of potatoes, corn, meat, fish, fruits, vegetables, spices and herbs tell a story of the past and the present.  The marriage of those various components make for some pretty tasty things to eat.  

Machu Picchu, Peru

Written by Karen.

We went to bed early the night before our trip to Machu Picchu.  I checked - and double checked - the alarm clock as we needed to be up, ready to go, and at the bus station before 6:00 am. We already knew where the bus stop was located in the small mountain town of Aguas Calientes and had already purchased our bus tickets to the top of the mountain and back down again earlier that afternoon.  Our small daypack was packed; filled with nuts, dried fruit and bottled water.  We had read that food and water was scarce and very expensive at the top. The weather was seemingly cooperating.  We were ready to go.

Road Trip - Andean Mountains

Written by Karen.

I confess that before we took this journey I didn't know much about the specifics of Incan history.  As we have delved deeper and deeper into South America, my fascination with the historical specifics has grown significantly.  It is aided by the close proximity of living, seeing, breathing, touching and walking through historical sites and the majestic and awesome angular beauty of the Andes.  

Views of Cusco - On to Machu Picchu

Written by Karen.
Cusco, Peru is 11,200 feet above sea level; some 11,000 feet higher than where we were just a few days ago in Peru’s capital city, Lima.  Cusco is another UNESCO World Heritage site - full of Spanish Colonial architecture and restored churches in the historic city center - built upon the the ruins of the former Incan empire capital city of Qusqu.

Nightime in Downtown Lima, Peru.

Cathedral of Lima in Plaza de Armas

Written by Karen.

Lima is a beautiful, interesting and dynamic city. The architecture, cobblestoned streets, great restaurants, events/activities, friendly people, and the large plazas make this a very walkable and fun city to explore.  Even at night.  The air cools down a bit, and people spill out into the main plaza, Plaza de Armas, and side streets to grab a bite to eat, watch the futbol game, sit and talk, or just people watch. Time seems to slow down.  No one is in a rush.  The night is young.  Why not hang out for awhile? 

San Cristobal - Lima, Peru

Written by Karen.
Earlier in the week, we had seen the colorful homes climbing up a mountain near the downtown historical center, and noticed the huge cross that was on top of the mountain light up during the evening hours and wondered about it. What was the significance of the mountain with the huge cross?

Saturday Afternoon in Lima, Peru

Coastal Views

Written by Karen.

We slid into Lima as if into a pool filled with cool satin.  Effortlessly.  We have only begun to scratch the surface of this City, but already we know that we really like this place.  A lot.  Lima is the first city that we have explored in South America where we can see ourselves living in for awhile.  

Lima, Peru

Zorritos, Peru

Written by Karen.
I know....it's a big jump from our last blog post written in Cuenca, Ecuador.  We've been on the road for the past 10 days - mostly without internet access and at times without electricity service! - so I'll post some experiences that we had on the road at a future time.  But, for now....we're in Lima, Peru!  

Off the Beaten Path: Ingapirca, Ecuador

The final approach to Ingapirca, Ecuador

Written by Karen.

We left from the Terminal Terrestre bus station in Cuenca for the largest Incan archeological ruins in Ecuador: Ingapirca.  Translation: the Incan wall.  Ingapirca is approximately 80 km north of Cuenca in the Cañar province and is approximately 10,357 feet in altitude.  So, it's a bit higher than our current altitude in Cuenca of 8,370 feet.

Pretty Coca-Cola and Avocado Milk on the Side, Please.

Cuenca, Ecuador

Written by Karen.

Today we were at the Terminal Terrestre, Cuenca's main bus station, researching options for the next leg of our trip. It was hot and muggy, and due to a neighbor having a loud conversation at 3:15 a.m., we were both lagging just a bit.  

Happy New Year - 2013!

Written by Karen.

Last night, we - along with a multitude of other Cuencanos - celebrated New Year's Eve in downtown Cuenca. 

Earlier in the month, we wondered about the life-sized and headless dummies that we saw in Baños, and had seen lots of plastic masks being sold in tiny shops and market stalls.

Rx in Cuenca, Ecuador

Written by Karen.

One of the biggest challenges that we faced before we left on our trip was how to ensure that Adam could continue to take his required medications.  These aren't unusual or high-risk medications, rather they are the everyday, preventative and ongoing maintenance medications that are required as a commitment to better health.   

Pase del Niño Viajero

Written by Karen.

The big Cuenca Christmas Eve parade was today and it didn't disappoint. The weather was cloudy and cool - perfect parade watching weather - and the mood was festive.  The City erected a serious sound system in the downtown main square and for the next 8 hours played familiar and unfamiliar Christmas carols and music.  

The Pase del Niño Viajero parade and celebration in Cuenca is said to be the biggest in Ecuador, with Ecuadorans coming from all over to participate and to watch.  As we understand it, the purpose of the parade is to highlight Mary and Joseph's travels and to honor the baby Christ child.  

The Eve Before Christmas Eve

Fresh rose petals on the side of the road 

Written by Karen.

The evening sky is turning pink, complimenting the dark gray and white clouds above and casting a pinkish-red glow over the city.  The colors of the buildings seem to warm and provide a contrast with their blue, orange, yellow and white facades.  Although the skies have been overcast for most of the day, it is still warm outside.  The air is almost soft as it settles in for the night and the first lights of the evening sputter on.  

Buses and Baños

Piedra de Aqua, Baños

Written by Karen.
Except for two taxi rides that we took early into our visit to Cuenca, we have preferred to take the local bus to our destination.  This might seem to be an odd preference, particularly since a taxi costs less than $5.00 USD, but where would the fun be in that?  

Venturing Out: Chordeleg, Ecuador

Written by Karen.
Adam gave himself another reprieve from shaving today.  We woke up to find that our Cuenca apartment didn't have any water.  Again.  Zero.  Nada.  This is the third day without having water.  Unlike what we are used to in the States, there is no notification - either advance or after-the fact - that you will not have water and when you might expect to have the water turned back on. You find out that there is no water when you turn the spigot and you get nothing but air.

Flashback: Bogota, Colombia - November 2012

Written by Adam

First of all, I am certainly no expert on South America.  It’s actually my first time ever visiting this continent.  I remember studying South America in about the fourth grade - Peru, Lake Titicaca, Bolivia, the Incas, the Spanish conquest, that sort of thing.  Pretty perfunctory, and certainly the material was not presented in any meaningful context at that grade level.

South America was that huge continent located below “ours”.  Mexico was that large country in between the two continents, along with that famous canal in Panama that changed shipping in the hemisphere forever.  

Venturing Out: Gualaceo, Ecuador

Written by Karen.
We walked down the dusty cobblestoned streets to the Terminal Terrestre (the bus station) which is in the southern part of Cuenca.  We planned to take a bus and explore several towns: Gualaceo, Chordeleg, and Sigsig. We wound up exploring just one today: Gualaceo.  Cost of the bus ride: 60 cents USD one-way per person.  

Venturing Out: Turi, Ecuador

Turi, Ecuador

Written by Karen.
Right outside of the city of Cuenca and atop a surrounding hill is the tiny parish of Turi.  We had read that you can see a very nice and expansive view of Cuenca from this little town, so we walked across the City to catch the bus heading towards Turi.  Cost: .25 cents each for a one-way trip.  

Ups and Downs of Traveling Slow

Cuenca, Ecuador

Written by Karen.
After not making a fully auspicious entrance into the City, it took us another six bumpy days until we were able to regain our footing and begin to hit our stride here in Cuenca, Ecuador.  

Cuenca itself is a charming Spanish colonial city of approximately 350,000 residents, with a vibrant historical downtown area that is fully being used in the everyday real sense, despite its UNESCO designation of a World Heritage site. The colorful architecture has been well-preserved in the historical downtown district and the cobblestoned streets and sidewalks make exploring the city a pleasure. 

Stuck for a Moment

Written by Karen.

Welcome to Cuenca, Ecuador.  I breathe a rather large sigh of relief.  We are high in the Andes mountains; we are so high that both the clouds and snow cover the sharp outlines of the craggy and rugged mountains.  As far as altitude goes, we have dropped from 9315 feet in Quito to 8370 feet here in Cuenca.   

The Calories, Calles and Carreras of Bogota

Written by Adam

One fascinating aspect of walking the streets of Bogota, Colombia is the incredible variety of snack foods and general merchandise that are easily available from earnest street vendors.  There are thousands of industrious people living in Bogota who have staked a claim to a busy street corner to park a pushcart on.  Others utilize the street-level alcoves of large buildings.  I have yet to see a single vending machine anywhere in the city.

Venturing out: Fusagasugá

Written by Karen.
We ventured out of Bogota again over the weekend, heading south this time and dropping 2,943 feet in altitude to visit the town of Fusagasugá. Since Fusagasugá or Fusa, as it is also called, is about 40 miles outside of Bogota, we figured that with an early start we should arrive by 11:30 am, at the latest.  

What's for Lunch?

Written by Karen.
Lunch is the biggest meal of the day here in Bogota, and is usually served between 12:00 and 3:30 pm.  We discovered the wonderful concept of set menus early in the month and have since tried different restaurants throughout the City.  

Off the Beaten Track - Villeta, Colombia

Written by Karen.

In the morning, Adam and I join up with Fernando, a local adventure trek guide, who will take us on a hike that will include walking to a series of waterfalls.  The waterfalls are called the Monkey Leaps, located in the jungle just outside of Villeta. 

Off the Beaten Track - La Vega, Colombia

The Lagoon Park, La Vega

Written by Karen.

After making our way from the small town of San Francisco (Enchanted Garden) and grabbing a bit to eat on the way, we drove further south to the small town of La Vega. 

Stumbling into the Twilight Zone?

A University to Educate Educators

Written by Karen.

Adam and I hit the streets of Bogota again yesterday. This time we headed back up to the northern part of Bogota, to a neighborhood called the 93 Parque. We had seen some pictures of tranquil parks and large trees in established neighborhoods, and figured that it would be a nice area to explore.  

A Day of Thanks

Written by Karen.

Today is Thanksgiving Day in the United States.  It is an opportunity to take the time to simply be appreciative.  It is a holiday usually spent with friends and family - who after all - are what matter.  

Off the Beaten Track - San Francisco, Colombia

Written by Karen.
Our first foray off the beaten track was visiting the small town of San Francisco, approximately 1 hour northwest of Bogota. A new friend of ours, Carolina, was taking us to where she and her husband, Ricardo, lived in Villeta for a two-day visit.  However, along the way, we planned to stop and see the Jardin Encantado, or the Enchanted Garden, located in San Francisco.  Cost: 12,000 COP ($6.67 USD) per person entrance fee.

Street Graffiti or Fine Art?

Written by Karen.
Every large city has an abundance of street graffiti, and Bogota, Colombia is certainly not an exception. As we've been walking the streets over the past several weeks, I've been taking pictures of some of the more interesting graffiti that we've come across.  Graffiti or Fine Art?  You decide.  

Bogota Museums - Casa Botero

Written by Karen.

I readily admit it....we like museums. And Bogota has a lot of museums. Some are better than others, but we manage to learn something from each of them.  

We haven't made a dent yet with all of the museum opportunities that are available, but we have visited quite a few so far: The National Museum; The Museum of Gold; The Police Museum; Casa Botero; The Mint House Museum; and, the Charles Darwin exhibit sponsored by the American Museum of Natural History.

Over the next few weeks, I will highlight a few of the more memorable museums that we have visited so far.  

Venturing Out: Zipaquirá

Written by Karen.
We ventured out of Bogota about 17 miles to the north to visit the small colonial town of Zipaquirá.  According to Wikipedia, Zipaquirá, or Zipa as it is also called, is one of the oldest colonial towns in Colombia and is more often associated with the Salt Cathedral that was built inside the mountain on the outskirts of town.  We didn't go up to the Salt Cathedral on this day, but did explore the cobblestoned streets and enjoy the ambience of the town itself.

Forecast: 20% Chance of Rain in Bogota

I'll let this video speak for itself.  (You Tube Video: Video footage taken on the bus)  Gonna buy a boat if we hear a forecast of 50% chance of rain!

Top of the Mountain!

Mount Monserrate from Central Bogota 

Written by Karen.

We visited Mount Monserrate today, located some 10,341 feet above sea level with grand, sweeping, panoramic views of the city of Bogota below. It was about an hour walk from our apartment to where you can take the aerial cable car to the top of the mountain.  The walk there is mostly all uphill, and the last mile is probably a sustained 8% grade.  Needless to say, we were sucking air by the time we got to the ticket counter!  

Traffic in Bogota, Colombia

Written by Karen.

When someone says that traffic is heavy, or intense, or crazy, we wonder just how heavy, intense or crazy the described traffic actually is.  Is it like the 405 during rush hour in Southern California, or is it more like the pinball driving experience coming over the hill on Highway 17 into the Silicon Valley?  Or is it like nothing you have ever experienced before?

Safe and Secure

Written by Karen.

Presidential Palace

We've gotten used to the altitude and thin air/pollution and have been hitting the streets pretty hard.  We have logged quite a few miles so far - but walking (and getting lost!) -  is the best way to really get a sense of what's around you when you are in a new place. 

Bogota - First Impressions

Written by Karen.

Except for the dramatic - and fast moving - clouds and the altitude headache that forces you to take it slow until you acclimate to the thinner air,  it's easy to forget that you are well over 8,000 feet above sea level.  There are no dramatic mountain ranges that tower above you or surround this huge city to remind you that you are at a high elevation. But, the forces that occur at this altitude are strong and we plan to take it slow for our first couple of days.  

Leaving on a Jet Plane

Written by Karen.

I know - I can’t believe it myself. Six days from now we will officially become vagabonds heading towards the airport with our backpacks weighing around 25 pounds each and, hopefully - with the wind at our backs - begin our travel adventure. Our first destination? It’s going to be high in the Andes - we will visit Bogota, Colombia.

Another Transition

Written by Karen.
Like wounded animals who curl into a dark place to lick their wounds, we lay low at Adam’s moms house for several days, popping Advil and catching catnaps to help allay the damage caused by our four-day blitz of moving out of our house.  Our tenants have moved in, and according to our property manager, are very happy in their new space.  This pronouncement also makes me happy.  It’s been quite an effort to get our house to the very best level possible - even though we knew it was for unknown tenants - and it feels like we are leaving our home in good hands.